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Home Mughlai Cuisine

Recreating Mughlai delicacies

by Todd M. Rosborough
April 16, 2025
in Mughlai Cuisine
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Recreating Mughlai delicacies

Delhi’s Mughlai cuisine goes back 500 years, although the records of West Asian non-veg dishes date to the 12th century when the Sultanate came into being. Even now, if you travel via the narrow gullies of Old Delhi, you’ll discover that there is lots more on provide than simply chaat. The ninth version of the Dilli 6 Food Festival at Okhla gave us a taste of delicacies from the reigns of the Tomars, Sultans, Mughals, and the British to Punjabi, Baniya, and Kayastha delicacies. There is a lavish buffet spread of 80-plus dishes every day at the competition. Named after the Walled City’s pin code, the once-a-year competition hosted as “Edesia” at Crowne Plaza took one on a culinary tour of Delhi spanning through time, dynasties, and generations.

According to Chef Swaminandan, “The antique town shares an intimate dating with food throughout the dynasties that have ruled the mainland: the Pandavas, Tomars, Mughals, and British. The food at Purani Dilli is sumptuously garnished with culinary secrets that have been passed down via generations to make Delhi the food capital of India. S. What a menu awaited us at the pageant: Subz-E-Zar, Mahi Subz Posh, Bibi Maryam-ki-Roti, Naan-E-Pista, Sarai-ki-Gosht Biryani, Jahangiri Qorma, Mian-ki-Halim, Prithvi Murgh-ka-Salan, Gosht Lagan Mela, Sunehri Tinda Moti, Simone-ki-Dal, Matar Paneer Neze, Bharta Telai, Dil Bahar Do Piaza, and such a lot of greater dishes.

The iconic Paranthe Wali Gali turned into additionally recreated for visitors to enjoy the deep-fried, golden paranthas filled with delicious fillings. From mooli, Mirchi, nimbu, gobhi, methi, and matar, to papad, mix veg, and mewa stuffing, you name it, and it became there, except the street meals: Matra Kulcha, Aloo Tikki, Golguppa, Dahi Bhalle, Aloo-Puri, Chole Bhature, and Samosa.

Then there had been cakes like Gali Dariba-ki-Jalebi, Feroze-ka-Habshi Halwa, Shafiq Kheer Wale-ki-Kheer, China Ram-ka-Karachi Halwa, Kuremal-ki-Matka Kulfi, Daulat-ki-Chaat, More Lala-ka-Kada Doodh, and Fatehpuri Lachcha Rabri. If you could eat a 36-inch Parantha in a stipulated time, you would win a free resort stay, said Ranjan Banerjee, the manager who hails from Meerut and brings a whiff of the well-known kababs with him.

Going past the festival, it’s well worth retelling that within the 14th century, Amir Khusrau wrote that the meal-spread (Dastarkhan) of Sultan Muhammad bin Tughlaq consisted of approximately two hundred dishes. The royal kitchen fed 20,000 human beings every day. In his epic poem, which later came to be known as Mathnavi dar Sifat-e-Delhi on Delhi subculture, Khusrau said: “The royal dinner party included Sherbet Labgir, Naan-e-tandoori, Sambusak, pulao, and halwa. They drank wine and ate Tambul (betel leaf) after dinner. Khusrau additionally mentions scrumptious dishes consisting of a sparrow and quail curry.

The Moorish traveler Ibn Battuta describes a royal meal on the desk of Muhammad’s father, Sultan Ghiyasuddin at Tughlaqabad, as a lavish spread comprising skinny round bread cakes; huge slabs of sheep mutton; round dough cakes made with ghee and filled with almond paste and honey; meat cooked with onions and ginger; rice with a chicken topping. Also, sambuca, triangular pastries fabricated from hashed meat with almonds, walnuts, pistachios, onions, and spices, positioned a bit of skinny bread fried in ghee internally, much like the samosa of today. Sweet cakes and sweetmeats made dessert, and the meal ended with paan.

As in keeping with author Sadia Dehlvi, inside the twelfth century, Sultans, who belonged to Central Asia’s warrior clans, needed to be glad about meals that changed into extra about survival than sophistication. “The refinement of their delicacies got here via interaction with Indian communities and the abundance of fruits, veggies, and spices available. The tables of Qutbuddin Aibak, Iltutmish, and Razia Sultan consisted of meat dishes, dairy products, clean results, and nearby greens before Firoz Shah’s Kotla started to be haunted by using jinns. The Mughals’ arrival in the 16th century delivered extra aroma and color to Delhi’s culinary range. However, the founder of the dynasty, Babar, complained about the lack of musk-melons, grapes, and other fruits abundant in his native Afghan land. His son, Humayun, is credited with bringing refined Persian cuisine to impact Delhi’s cuisine after years spent in exile in Persia, following his defeat by way of Sher Shah Suri.

The fusion of Indian and Persian kinds of cooking came to be referred to as “Mughal cuisine.” In Ain-i-Akbari, Abul Fazl, Emperor Akbar’s courtier, says that chefs from Persia and India’s various components might serve within the royal kitchen. This led to the merging of Turkish, Afghan, Indian, and Persian sorts of cooking. Abul Fazl states that more than four hundred chefs from Persia fashioned the massive kitchen established order with head chefs, respectable tasters, and numerous different groups of workers.

He talks of rice from unique regions, duck and waterfowl from Kashmir, and unique breeds of chook raised for banquets, hand-fed with pellets flavored with saffron and rosewater. The beef turned into something not often eaten, and red meat changed into forbidden. During the reign of Shah Jahan, the cuisine became extra delicate and endured as much as the time of the ultimate emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar. A pattern of this extensive style of food became to be had on the Dilli 6 festival.

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Todd M. Rosborough

Todd M. Rosborough

I love trying new restaurants and exploring all the culinary experiences that Los Angeles has to offer. I also enjoy cooking for my family and friends when they visit. I have a B.S. degree in Psychology and a minor in Criminal Justice from California State University Northridge. I have been blogging about food since 2007.

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