It’s just over two years on the grounds that I got the decision asking me to jot down a vegan recipe column for this magazine. It turned into a dream come real, but there have been a few small issues.
For a begin, I wasn’t vegan.
Second, I had handiest ever written approximately Indian food.
Third, I had simply had a toddler, who become just a few weeks antique. Not handiest had life been thrown into chaos by means of Arya’s arrival, however, I had deliberate to take a yr off. It became an amazing possibility that had come on the worst viable time. I stalled for an afternoon. I stated yes.
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The reality is, I was excited to go into this brave new world. Huge numbers of human beings, growing by using the day even then, have been selecting to consume an extra plant-based weight loss program, whether for political, environmental or economic motives. Although a highly small quantity had been vegan, a larger number have been seeking to lessen the beef and dairy of their weight-reduction plan. This regarded a crucial discussion and I wanted to be part of it.
At the time, some of the recipes being touted for vegans weren’t tempting. They didn’t make me hungry, besides. Plant-based totally food changed into nonetheless inside the shadows of its affiliation with hemp-trouser-wearing hippies or hijacked by the wellbeing brigade. It felt as even though the pleasures of eating and the significance of flavor were forgotten.
As an outsider, I idea I can be more resourceful. I understood meat-eaters and knew the textures, flavors and “richness” they might omit. I had additionally spent years writing a vegetarian Indian cookery e-book; I knew the way to make bitter cavolo nero leaves sing and the way to tempt a beetroot-hater into consuming a plateful.
I commenced by way of looking past India to east and south-east Asia, locating new ways to shift veggies from the facet to the center of the table. I had already traveled to Sri Lanka and eaten sublime beetroot and cashew curries. In Thailand, I had memorized each twist within the introduction of som tam salad and counted down the mins till my next pad thai. I had been soothed by means of my first congee in Hong Kong and had my taste buds electrified in London’s Chinatown by using a bowl of dan dan noodles. I was hungry for more.
I also located that vegan constraints are a catalyst for creativity. Not cooking with meat, fish, dairy or eggs pressured me to think in new ways. I found the fantastic global of the Asian larder: fermented, pickled and salted substances – kimchi, candy miso, and gochujang delivered flavor in an on the spot.
But veganism wasn’t my handiest constraint. I had a good deal much less time on my palms, now that I become a mum. This supposed that intricate dishes, or those that required an excessive amount of time to prepare or cook, were left out. They didn’t make the reduce for my Guardian column or my new e-book.

The biggest trouble of the past two years changed into not being capable of the tour to the nations whose meals I desired to explore, as I had for my Indian cookbooks. My daughter was so younger and I didn’t want to go away her. This time, I traveled by means of reading: I observed Fuchsia Dunlop across the streets of Chengdu and noticed 90s Jakarta thru Madhur Jaffrey’s eyes. When I ran out of books, I packed Arya and a pocketbook right into a baby carrier and went on a meals safari, to find the excellent laksa, bun cha or massaman curry in London.
I found that I could tour to Asia without visiting very some distance in any respect. I spoke to a friend, Ben, who’s from Borneo, wherein Sarawak laksa is prized. I begged Wichet Khongphoon, the owner-chef of the Thai restaurant Supawan in relevant London, to reveal me a way to make a tom ka gai soup; and Shuko Oda, the Japanese chef, to train me a way to make her walnut miso. I accosted home chefs on social media who had innocently posted pix in their breakfast, to invite them extra approximately what they ate and how they made it.
I launched into a virtual curry odyssey around India – from Punjab within the north to Mysore, the town that smells of sandalwood and yoga mats, in the south; to the neighbouring kingdom of Kerala and its moderate tattoos (greens cooked in a ginger, chilli and coconut sauce) and east to Tamil Nadu where, between ancient carved temples and silk sari stores, you’ll discover eating places serving thakkali kuzhambu, a tomato curry cooked with tamarind, coconut, and pickling spices which include mustard, fennel, and cumin seeds.
I sailed throughout the Palk Strait to Sri Lanka, in which lunch means a spread of curries each made from one principal aspect – beetroot, aubergine, pumpkin, cashew – served alongside a coconut dal (parippu). I traveled east to Thailand, and on to Japan, wherein the katsu curry bears little resemblance to some thing I’ve eaten everywhere else.
And I transformed into tofu. Until multiple years in the past, I changed into a tofu-denier. The dish that changed my thoughts become chili tofu, shared with my father at his favorite bolthole, a canteen known as Tangoe in Leicester. The tofu became crisp and chewy, giving manner to a smooth and creamy sponginess, and doused in a sweet, fiery sauce. This is dwelling, I keep in mind questioning – until we were given to the remaining piece. Surely it’s the daughter who ought to have it, I stated, however, he decided it turned into the father’s proper. We are still on speaking phrases.
Here, then, are six new vegan and vegetarian recipes from my travels. I hope you experience.

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